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Zebra on the shore of Lake Nakuru
Parque nacional

Lake Nakuru

A soda lake in the Rift Valley, fenced and heavily protected. Lake Nakuru National Park holds both black and white rhino, three hours from Nairobi on tarmac the whole way.

Declarado en 1968
Superficie 188 km²
Por carretera desde Nairobi 3 horas
Vuelo 30 minutos
Mejores meses January to February, July to September
Safaris desde $460

Lake Nakuru National Park is fenced, which is unusual in Kenya. It is also exactly why the park works as a rhino sanctuary.

Both black and white rhino are here, in numbers that make a sighting likely rather than lucky. So is Rothschild’s giraffe, translocated in and doing well. Lion, buffalo, waterbuck and a great deal of birdlife fill in the rest.

Getting to Lake Nakuru National Park

White rhino grazing at Lake Nakuru
White rhino, the reason the park is fenced

Three hours from Nairobi, tarmac the whole way, with the Rift Valley escarpment on the road there and back. That makes the one-night trip the easiest overnight safari in the country.

You can do it as a long day. We would not recommend it. The best game viewing is early, and a day trip misses that entirely.

The flamingos, honestly

Flamingos on Lake Nakuru
Flamingos, whose numbers rise and fall with the lake

They are the park’s postcard image and the part that needs the most honesty.

Their numbers depend on the lake’s alkalinity, which depends on its water level. When the lake rose sharply through the last decade, the algae the birds feed on thinned out. Most of the flock moved to Lake Bogoria and Lake Elmenteita.

A Rothschild's giraffe among the yellow fever trees
Rothschild's giraffe, translocated here in 1977

Some years they are back in the hundreds of thousands. Some years they are not there at all. We will tell you what the lake is actually doing before you book.

What the fence changes

Rhino do well here because the park is small, patrolled and enclosed. The trade-off is that it feels more managed than the Mara or Tsavo. That is a fair description, and it is still the best rhino viewing in Kenya outside a conservancy.

Pairing it up

A waterbuck at the lake edge
Waterbuck at the lake edge

Nakuru sits an hour from Lake Naivasha, which makes a comfortable two-lake weekend. It also works as the first leg of a longer run west to the Mara. Timing is covered in our month-by-month guide.

Practical notes

One night is enough to see the park properly. The circuit is compact and the roads are good, so you are not spending hours in transit inside the gates.

Kiondo baskets woven from sisal
A women’s cooperative weaving kiondo baskets from sisal

The lake is at 1,750 metres and mornings are genuinely cold. Bring a fleece for the first game drive even in the dry season. Baboons around the picnic sites are bold and well practised, so do not leave food visible in an open vehicle.

The park is run by the Kenya Wildlife Service.

Trasfondo

Por qué existe Lake Nakuru

Declarado en 1968. Para qué se creó, y qué lo amenaza ahora.

Lake Nakuru was protected as a bird sanctuary in 1961 and upgraded to a national park in 1968, largely because of the flamingos. It became a Ramsar wetland of international importance in 1990.

The fence came later, and it changed what the park is for. Nakuru is now one of Kenya's most important rhino sanctuaries, holding both black and white rhino in numbers that a small enclosed park can actually protect. Rothschild's giraffe were translocated here in 1977 and have done well enough to be moved on to other parks since.

The lake itself is the unresolved problem: it rose sharply through the 2010s, drowning roads and lakeside forest and pushing the flamingos elsewhere.

Flamingos on Lake Nakuru
Fauna

A qué se viene a Lake Nakuru

Las especies por las que este sitio es realmente conocido, no una lista de los cinco grandes que valdría para cualquier parque de Kenia.

White rhino grazing at Lake Nakuru01

Southern white rhino

Ceratotherium simum

Grazers, and far more relaxed around vehicles than black rhino. Nakuru is the most reliable place in Kenya to see them.

A Rothschild's giraffe among the yellow fever trees02

Rothschild's giraffe

Giraffa camelopardalis rothschildi

Translocated here in 1977 from western Kenya. Recognisable by the clean white stockings below the knee.

Flamingos on Lake Nakuru03

Lesser flamingo

Phoeniconaias minor

Numbers depend on the lake’s alkalinity, which depends on its level. Some seasons hundreds of thousands. Some seasons none at all.

Safaris

Viajes a Lake Nakuru

Todos los precios incluyen entradas, transporte y su chófer-guía.

Gente y artesanía

De quién es la tierra de Lake Nakuru

Los parques de Kenia son pequeños. Casi todo lo que decide si la fauna sobrevive ocurre en la tierra que los rodea, y esa tierra es de alguien.

The adumu, the Maasai jumping dance

Las comunidades

Nakuru is a working city of over 600,000 people, and the park begins at the edge of it. That proximity is the story here: this is not wilderness, it is a protected island inside an agricultural and industrial landscape.

The country around it is Kikuyu and Kalenjin farmland, and the Rift Valley floor south towards Naivasha carries much of Kenya's horticulture. The lake's water quality, and therefore its flamingos, is directly affected by what happens in the catchment above it.

It is a useful corrective to the idea that Kenyan conservation happens somewhere remote.

A curio stall of Kenyan carvings and beadwork

Tiendas de artesanía y qué comprar

Nakuru town has a good produce and craft market, and the road between Nairobi and Naivasha is lined with roadside carving and basket stalls, most of them selling work made in the Rift Valley rather than imported.

Look for kiondo baskets woven from sisal, which are made by women's groups across the central highlands and last for decades.

The viewpoint stalls on the escarpment above Naivasha are the most convenient stop, and prices there are higher for exactly that reason. Nothing wrong with paying it, but know that you are.

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