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White rhino grazing on the Ol Pejeta plains
Conservancy

Ol Pejeta

A working conservancy on the Laikipia plateau. An Ol Pejeta Conservancy safari means the largest black rhino population in East Africa, and conservation you can see the workings of.

Créé en 2004
Superficie 364 km²
Route depuis Nairobi 3.5 heures
Vol 45 minutes
Meilleurs mois January to February, June to October
Safaris à partir de $1,180

An Ol Pejeta Conservancy safari is not a national park trip, and the difference is the point.

Ol Pejeta sits between the foothills of the Aberdares and Mount Kenya. It is a conservancy rather than a park. Cattle and wildlife share the ground, and the economics of that arrangement are part of what you come to see.

What an Ol Pejeta Conservancy safari allows

Black rhino on the Ol Pejeta Conservancy
Black rhino, the largest population in East Africa

Because this is private land, it permits things the parks do not. Night drives. Guided walks. Lion tracking with the research team. Rhino tracking on foot.

None of that is available inside a national park, and it is the practical reason to add Ol Pejeta to a longer trip.

The rhinos

A chimpanzee at the Sweetwaters sanctuary
The Sweetwaters sanctuary, opened in 1993

It holds the largest black rhino population in East Africa. It is also home to Najin and Fatu, the last two northern white rhinos alive.

Both are female. The subspecies is functionally extinct. What happens next depends on IVF work that may or may not succeed. Standing in front of them is a strange and quiet experience, and it is not a cheerful one.

The chimpanzee sanctuary

White rhino grazing on open grassland
White rhino grazing on the conservancy

Sweetwaters, next door, houses chimpanzees rescued from the black market, mostly from West and Central Africa. Chimpanzees are not native to Kenya. This is a sanctuary rather than a wild population, and the staff are straightforward about that.

What else you will see

Lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, cheetah, Grevy’s zebra and Jackson’s hartebeest. Mount Kenya on the horizon on a clear morning.

How to visit

A giraffe on the track at Ol Pejeta with Mount Kenya behind
A giraffe on the track with Mount Kenya behind

Most people see Ol Pejeta as the first leg of the five-day Mara circuit. It also breaks the drive home from Samburu. Two nights is enough to use the walking and the night drives properly.

Practical notes

Two nights lets you use the walking, the night drive and the rhino tracking without rushing. One night means picking one of the three.

A Maasai herder with cattle beside a conservancy
Cattle share the ground with the wildlife, the conservancy’s whole model

It sits at 1,800 metres on the equator, so it is warm by day and cold before dawn. The extra activities are charged separately by the conservancy and are worth budgeting for. A night drive and a guided walk together usually add around $100 per person.

Book the walking in advance. Guide numbers are limited and it fills.

An elephant wanders through the golden savanna grass, silhouetted against the brilliance of the setting sun.

The conservancy publishes its own conservation reporting at olpejetaconservancy.org.

Contexte

Pourquoi Ol Pejeta existe

Créé en 2004. Ce qu'il devait protéger, et ce qui le menace aujourd'hui.

Ol Pejeta is not a park. It was a colonial cattle ranch, bought in 2004 by Fauna & Flora International with support from the Arcus Foundation and turned into a not-for-profit conservancy. Cattle still run on it, and the herd helps pay for the wildlife.

That model is the point. Ol Pejeta exists to demonstrate that livestock and wildlife can share the same ground profitably, and it publishes its accounts to prove it.

It now holds the largest black rhino population in East Africa, a chimpanzee sanctuary opened in 1993 for animals rescued from the trade, and the last two northern white rhinos alive: both female, both under armed guard, and the subspecies functionally extinct.

A chimpanzee at the Sweetwaters sanctuary
Faune

Ce pour quoi on vient à Ol Pejeta

Les espèces pour lesquelles ce lieu est réellement connu, pas une liste des cinq grands qui conviendrait à n'importe quel parc du Kenya.

Black rhino on the Ol Pejeta Conservancy01

Eastern black rhino

Diceros bicornis michaeli

Browsers, solitary and short-tempered. Ol Pejeta holds the largest population in East Africa and permits tracking them on foot with rangers.

White rhino grazing on open grassland02

Southern white rhino

Ceratotherium simum simum

Ol Pejeta also holds Najin and Fatu, the last two northern white rhinos alive. Both are female, the subspecies is functionally extinct, and what happens next depends on IVF work that may not succeed.

A chimpanzee at the Sweetwaters sanctuary03

Chimpanzee

Pan troglodytes

Not native to Kenya. The Sweetwaters sanctuary houses animals rescued from the black market, mostly from West and Central Africa.

Safaris

Voyages vers Ol Pejeta

Chaque prix comprend les droits d'entrée, le transport et votre chauffeur-guide.

Gens et artisanat

À qui appartient la terre de Ol Pejeta

Les parcs du Kenya sont petits. Presque tout ce qui décide de la survie de la faune se joue sur les terres qui les entourent, et ces terres appartiennent à quelqu'un.

Samburu community members in northern Kenya

Les communautés

Ol Pejeta sits in Laikipia, which has the most complicated land history in Kenya, colonial ranches, Maasai communities moved off that land under the 1904 and 1911 agreements, and Samburu and Pokot herders who still drive cattle through in drought years.

None of that is settled, and grazing incursions during dry seasons are a real and recurring source of conflict.

The conservancy runs schools, clinics and water projects in the neighbouring communities and reports the spending publicly. Whether that is sufficient compensation for the underlying history is a fair question, and the staff will discuss it if you ask.

Kisii soapstone, carved and polished by hand

Les boutiques d’artisanat et quoi acheter

The conservancy runs a craft shop at the main gate stocking work from the surrounding communities: beadwork, woven baskets, and figures carved from olive wood.

The distinctive thing here is jewellery made from recycled brass and reclaimed snare wire, the wire is lifted from the conservancy by anti-poaching teams and sold back as bangles, which is a neat piece of circularity.

Proceeds go into the community development fund. Prices are fixed and receipts are itemised, so you can see the split.

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