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An elephant crossing in front of Kilimanjaro in Amboseli
Parc national

Amboseli

The elephant park, sitting directly beneath Kilimanjaro. An Amboseli National Park safari is four hours from Nairobi, with the most recognisable backdrop in East Africa.

Créé en 1974
Superficie 392 km²
Route depuis Nairobi 4 heures
Vol 45 minutes
Meilleurs mois January to February, June to October
Safaris à partir de $520

An Amboseli National Park safari is built around two things: elephants with big tusks, and a mountain that only shows itself early and late.

The park is small, flat and dusty. It holds one of the best-studied elephant populations in the world, the Amboseli Trust for Elephants has followed individual families here since 1972. It is also the most reliable place in Kenya to see genuinely big tusks.

Planning an Amboseli National Park safari

Elephants in Amboseli with Kilimanjaro behind
Elephants beneath Kilimanjaro, clear only early and late

Amboseli is four hours from Nairobi on good road. That makes a two-day trip genuinely worthwhile rather than a compromise. The park is small enough to cover properly in three game drives.

Most people come for one night. Two nights is better if the mountain matters to you, because it gives you a second morning.

The mountain, honestly

Elephants and flamingos in the Amboseli swamps
The meltwater swamps that stay green through the dry season

Kilimanjaro is clear at dawn and around dusk. It spends much of the middle of the day behind cloud. In the wet season there are weeks when it does not appear at all.

Plan the drives around that rather than hoping. If the mountain is the whole reason you are coming, build in two mornings rather than one.

Why the swamps matter

The swamps and plains of Amboseli National Park
Dust and open plain across most of the park

Meltwater from Kilimanjaro feeds swamps in the centre of the park. They stay green when everything around them has burned off. That concentrates game into a small area, which is what makes Amboseli unusually easy to game-view in the dry season.

Elephant spend whole afternoons in them. So do buffalo, hippo and a great deal of birdlife.

What else is here

Cape buffalo in Kenya
Buffalo using the permanent water

Lion, cheetah, spotted hyena, giraffe, zebra and wildebeest. Over 400 bird species. No rhino: they were poached out decades ago and have not been brought back.

When to come

June to October and January to February are dry and clear. The long rains fall March to May, when rates drop sharply and the mountain is least reliable. Our month-by-month guide sets out the trade-offs.

Practical notes

A Maasai herder with cattle beside a conservancy
A Maasai herder on the group ranches around the park

One night is the standard here, two if the mountain matters to you. Bring a dust cover for camera gear. Amboseli is fine volcanic dust and it gets into everything.

Mornings are cold in an open vehicle and afternoons are hot, so dress in layers you can shed. Children do well here: the drives are short and the road is tarmac the whole way.

Guests watching wildebeest from a pop-top minibus in Kenya
Guests watching from a pop-top minibus, roof up

Park entry is administered by the Kenya Wildlife Service.

Contexte

Pourquoi Amboseli existe

Créé en 1974. Ce qu'il devait protéger, et ce qui le menace aujourd'hui.

Amboseli was set aside as part of the Southern Maasai Reserve in 1906, handed to local control in 1948, and finally gazetted as a national park in 1974. The 1974 boundary was drawn deliberately tight, 392 square kilometres, to protect the swamps while leaving the surrounding land to Maasai pastoralists.

UNESCO designated the wider area a Man and Biosphere Reserve in 1991.

The park is far too small to hold its own elephants, which range across something closer to 8,000 square kilometres of community land around it. Every serious conservation question here is therefore about the land outside the gate, not inside it.

The swamps and plains of Amboseli National Park
Faune

Ce pour quoi on vient à Amboseli

Les espèces pour lesquelles ce lieu est réellement connu, pas une liste des cinq grands qui conviendrait à n'importe quel parc du Kenya.

Elephants in Amboseli with Kilimanjaro behind01

African elephant

Loxodonta africana

The best-studied elephant population in the world. The Amboseli Trust for Elephants has followed named individuals and families continuously since 1972.

Cape buffalo in Kenya02

Cape buffalo

Syncerus caffer

Large herds use the permanent swamps through the dry season, often standing chest-deep alongside the elephants.

Great white pelicans on a Rift Valley lake03

Great white pelican

Pelecanus onocrotalus

Amboseli records over 400 bird species. The meltwater swamps hold pelican, flamingo and heron in a landscape that is otherwise dust.

Safaris

Voyages vers Amboseli

Chaque prix comprend les droits d'entrée, le transport et votre chauffeur-guide.

Gens et artisanat

À qui appartient la terre de Amboseli

Les parcs du Kenya sont petits. Presque tout ce qui décide de la survie de la faune se joue sur les terres qui les entourent, et ces terres appartiennent à quelqu'un.

The adumu, the Maasai jumping dance

Les communautés

Amboseli sits in Kajiado County, in the heart of Maasai pastoralist country, and the group ranches around the park are the elephants' real habitat.

Several of those ranches now run their own conservancies: Selenkay, Kitirua, Olgulului, which earn lease income from tourism instead of converting grazing to crops. Where those schemes work, elephants pass through unharmed. Where they fail, the same elephants become a crop-raiding problem and are killed.

It is the clearest example in Kenya of conservation being an economic argument rather than a moral one.

A curio stall of Kenyan carvings and beadwork

Les boutiques d’artisanat et quoi acheter

The Maasai women's groups around Kimana and Selenkay sell beadwork, leather sandals cut from recycled tyre rubber, and carved olive-wood bowls. Several camps run a fixed-price craft shed where the maker's name is on the ticket.

Buy there rather than at the park gate. Gate sellers are usually reselling, and the margin does not reach the person who did the work.

Avoid anything made from ivory, horn, tortoiseshell or wild-animal skin. It is illegal to buy or export, and being offered it is a reason to walk away from that stall entirely.

À lire

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